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Khám phá Sơn Động

Khám phá Sơn Động
TTO - Là huyện nghèo nhất tỉnh Bắc Giang, nhưng Sơn Động vẫn là vùng đất giàu tiềm năng du lịch sinh thái với những thắng cảnh rừng Khe Rỗ, thác Ba Tầm, khe Nước Vàng, bản Đồng Cao...

Trên những nẻo đường phượt, chúng tôi đã có dịp khám phá nhiều điều thú vị về mảnh đất này.

 

Khung cảnh đẹp như cõi tiên trên hồ Khe Đặng - Ảnh:  Ngọc Thắng

 

1. Theo quốc lộ 1 và quốc lộ 31, chúng tôi vượt chặng đường dài 150km từ Hà Nội đến Khe Rỗ, xã An Lạc, huyện Sơn Động. Đến địa phận khu bảo tồn thiên nhiên Tây Yên Từ, chỉ thấy bốn mặt là núi đồi và cây rừng xanh mướt. Tiếng suối chảy róc rách, những ngôi nhà tre vách đất chênh vênh trên sườn đồi, tiếng chim rừng ríu rít... tấu lên những thanh âm hoang dại.

ênh trên sườn đồi, tiếng chim rừng ríu rít... tấu lên những thanh âm hoang dại.

 

Nhà sàn kiểm lâm Biểng lọt thỏm giữa rừng cây, dòng suối thơ mộng trong rừng nguyên sinh Khe Rỗ - Ảnh: Tiến Thành

 

Theo đường mòn đi sâu vào lõi rừng Khe Rỗ, con đường đất với hai bên um tùm cây cối như  trêu gan những kẻ lữ hành... cuối cùng cả bọn cũng tìm được căn nhà sàn do trạm kiểm lâm Biểng quản lý. Từ suối Khe Rỗ, nhìn ngôi nhà như lọt thỏm giữa chốn thần tiên.

Bác Tô Văn Trương, 54 tuổi, người dân tộc Tày, cho chúng tôi giải nhiệt bằng chén nước vối. Bác Trương làm kiểm lâm tại Khe Rỗ được gần năm năm. Nơi đây giờ đã là nơi an cư lạc nghiệp của bà con dân tộc thiểu số như Tày, Nùng, Sán Dìu… Câu chuyện ở Khe Rỗ càng trở nên sôi nổi khi có ông Đỗ Hữu Thư, chuyên viên nghiên cứu thực vật ở Viện Khoa học và công nghệ Việt Nam, góp chuyện.

Chỉ tay về phía rừng lim đang tỏa bóng mát sau nhà sàn, ông Thư khoe "rừng Khe Rỗ giờ đã xứng là rốn lim của cả nước” với nhiều loài lim xanh, táu, thông làng, trám, rẻ, bách diệp… Đặc biệt rừng nguyên sinh pơmu, thứ cây thường chỉ mọc ở độ cao 1.200-1.400m nhưng vẫn tồn tại ở Khe Rỗ với độ cao chỉ 600-700m...

 

Lội suối vào vùng lõi rừng nguyên sinh - Ảnh: Tiến Thành

Một góc rừng lim xanh có một không hai ở Khe Rỗ - Ảnh: Tiến Thành

Bác Tô Văn Trương, kiểm lâm rừng nguyên sinh Khe Rỗ, chuẩn bị lưới bắt cá suối, chuẩn bị bữa ăn hàng ngày - Ảnh: Tiến Thành

 

2. Chia tay trạm kiểm lâm Biểng, chúng tôi ngược ra xã Vĩnh Khương, khám phá thác Ba Tầm nổi tiếng. Phải cuốc bộ qua 3km đường đất, vượt măm con suối dọc đường mới đến được hồ Khe Đặng. Bù lại vẻ đẹp trong xanh và tĩnh lặng của hồ làm ai nấy đều bất ngờ, những mệt mỏi sau chặng đường bách bộ như được xua tan khi đối diện dòng thác đổ ào ào và hàng tỉ bọt nước bắn tung mát lạnh.

Bên cạnh ngọn thác cao khoảng 50m là những cây cổ thụ trơ gan cùng tuế nguyệt, một tảng đá lớn chắn mình trước dòng nước gợi nên cảnh tượng kỳ vĩ…

 

Suối Ba Tầm thơ mộng - Ảnh: Ngọc Thắng

 

3. Được sự giới thiệu của người dân, chúng tôi đến xã Đồng Rì để tìm thượng nguồn khe Nước Vàng, thắng cảnh nức tiếng ở xã Thanh Sơn. Đường đi ban đầu khá dễ nhưng càng vào sâu rừng càng khó. Những ngã ba đường mòn liên tiếp xuất hiện buộc cả bọn phải chọn đường đi theo cảm tính. Sau một giờ đi bộ, lại bắt gặp một thác nước nằm ẩn mình sau những lớp cây rừng.

Đó là con thác cao hơn 10m, đổ từng dòng nước tung bọt trắng xóa xuống dòng nước xanh ngắt và mát lạnh. Giữa núi rừng hoang sơ kỳ vĩ, dòng nước như càng xanh màu ngọc bích, phong cảnh hữu tình tựa chốn bồng lai...

 

Dòng nước suối vàng như mật ong trên đường đến thượng nguồn khe Nước Vàng - Ảnh: Ngọc Thắng

 

Có lẽ cũng bởi sự thiếu tỉnh táo ấy nên khi vài người bản địa xem những tấm hình chụp lại thác nước, chúng tôi mới biết đã đi nhầm đường. Con thác đã gặp có tên Hố Thùng, một nhánh khác của khe Nước Vàng. Nước ở đó xanh trong, không có màu vàng như thác Ba Tia - nguồn chính của khe Nước Vàng.

Người dân nơi đây còn cho biết khu vực đầu ngưồn của khe Nước Vàng còn có rất nhiều thác, có thác cao nhất trên 20m nằm trên đỉnh núi, gần chùa Đồng Yên Tử, nhưng muốn chinh phục phải mất cả ngày.

4. Từ ngã ba Cẩm Đàn trên quốc 31, đi khoảng 20km đến trung tâm xã Thạch Sơn. Qua bản Đồng Băm, vượt con đèo thẳng đứng dài 3km là tới bản Đồng Cao. Giống như một thế giới khác, một thế giới trong lành và yên bình, không vướng bận lo toan, phiền muộn.

Cả bản làng Đồng Cao nằm trên một cao nguyên nhỏ, được bao quanh bởi những đỉnh núi phủ màu xanh rì. Những ngôi nhà thấp lè tè nằm khiêm tốn dưới những triền núi cách nhau đến cả trăm mét, giữa bản là đồng lúa đang vào vụ cấy.

 

Chăn trâu trên đồi cỏ thơ mộng ở Đồng Cao - Ảnh: Ngọc Thắng

Nếp nhà ngói thanh bình của đồng bào dân tộc Dao - Ảnh: Tiến Thành

 

Thời tiết ở Đồng Cao mát mẻ nhưng cũng khá đỏng đảnh. Chúng tôi vừa đến nơi thì trời đổ mưa, nhưng chốc lát trời lại hửng nắng và trong xanh trở lại. Trên triền cỏ xanh mướt, những đàn trâu mộng vẫn thong thả gặm cỏ dưới ánh mắt dõi theo của vài chú mục đồng…

Chia tay Sơn Động, lòng vấn vương và thoáng chút nuối tiếc cho những thắng cảnh bị “bỏ quên”, đến bao giờ Sơn Động mới trở mình?

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